Welcome to my Backyard Gardening series, where, over the next few months, we will continue providing you with simple steps that can help anyone grow more food at home. Do check last month’s Special Edition for our first two lessons in the series.
Now that your seeds have germinated and you have seedlings coming up, this phase is the stage that determines whether you end up with strong plants or plants that struggle from early. What you do here matters more than most people realise. One of the most common problems at this stage is leggy seedlings. These are seedlings that grow tall, thin, and weak, often leaning or falling over. The main cause of this is not enough light.
SUNLIGHT AND AIRFLOW
As soon as your seedlings emerge, they need good light. If they are kept in a dim area, they will stretch towards the light, becoming weak in the process. To fix the problem, place them where they can get bright light and gentle morning sun. Avoid putting them directly in the harsh midday sun, but don’t keep them in the shade either. A good test is this: if your seedlings are leaning strongly in one direction, they need more light. You can also rotate your tray every day or two so the plants grow evenly.
Another thing that makes a big difference is airflow. Seedlings grown in still, enclosed areas tend to remain weak. If you move them to a space where they can get natural air movement, even something as simple as an open window or outdoor shaded area, their stems will begin to strengthen. You’ll actually notice them becoming thicker and more stable over time. If you can’t move your seedlings to a space with natural air movement, you can improvise by using a fan on the lowest setting. It simulates natural air movement and helps toughen up the seedlings.
WATERING FROM BELOW AND SEED DEPTH
Watering also needs to change at this stage. This topic was already covered in our March lessons, but just as a reminder, avoid keeping the soil constantly wet. After germination, seedlings grow better when the soil is allowed to slightly dry before watering again. A simple way to check is to press your finger into the soil. If it still feels moist below the surface, leave it. If it feels dry, then it’s time to water.
You can water from above using a watering can or hose, but a more gentle and less disruptive method is bottom watering. This is where you place your seedling tray or container in a shallow container with water and allow it to absorb moisture from below. This method helps prevent washing away the soil and reduces the risk of root problems while encouraging stronger root growth.
Seeds should generally be planted at a depth of about twice their size. While your current seedlings are already up, bear this guideline in mind for your next planting cycle. Planting too deep can delay or prevent germination, while planting too shallow can cause seeds to dry out too rapidly.
As your seedlings develop, you need to watch for signs that they are ready to move. Seedlings are usually ready for transplanting when they have 2 to 4 true leaves (these are the leaves that come after the first seed leaves), a firm upright stem, and roots that are beginning to hold the soil together when you gently lift them.
TRANSPLANTING
Transplanting is where many good seedlings are lost, mainly because of shock. If you take a seedling from a protected environment and put it straight into full sun, it can wilt or stop growing. To avoid such issues, you need to harden off your seedlings. This means getting them used to full outdoor conditions gradually. Start by placing them outside in a shaded area for a few hours, then increase their time and exposure to sunlight over about 5 to 7 days. By the end of that period, they should be able to handle full conditions without stress.
When you are ready to transplant, water the seedlings first so the soil stays together. Remove them gently from the tray, holding them by the leaves, not the stem. Make a hole in your container or bed, place the seedling in, and firm the soil around it so it stands upright. Water immediately after planting to help settle the soil around the roots. For the first day or two, if the weather is scorching, give them a little shade.
Instead of using strong fertilisers at this stage, you can lightly support the plant with a small amount of compost or worm castings added around the base after a few days. You can also use a very diluted compost tea once the plant has settled. The key is to keep feeding gently while the plant is adjusting.
I will tell you next time about organic fertilisers and also what you can do if you don’t have access to planting in the earth.
HOMEWORK
Observe your seedlings closely and group them into two categories:
- those that are strong and upright
- those that are tall, thin, or leaning
Take note of where each group is placed (light, spacing, airflow). If you have enough seedlings, try this:
- Move one set into better light conditions
- Leave the others where they are
After one week, compare the difference. Please send me pictures of both sets and let me know what changes you observed. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at freedomcomerain@gmail.com. Remember that this is an interactive class and I need to see how you’re progressing so I can support those who may need a little extra help.
LET’S GET HAPPILY PLANTING!
Claudelle Maitland Wilson has been saved for the past five years. She is an agroforester who works with Jamaica’s farmers in strategically using trees to improve their farm output and income. An organic back-yard farmer herself, her passion is to help persons establish their own vegetable gardens.